T290
Junior Member
Posts: 4
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Post by T290 on Jun 4, 2012 20:02:56 GMT -5
Honda Cat after speaking with you this afternoon went into panel to check wiring on fuel guage all seems to be on proper terminals this has got me stumped I turn on my navigational lights and fuel meter pegs instantly to E turn off lights and it floats back to 1/2full !! I am confused. At all terminals with a purple wire I have power(12v) at gauges except for the fuel gauge no power at all ignition off or on battery switch positioned on #1 or #2 no difference....any thoughts??
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Post by hondacat on Jun 5, 2012 8:41:04 GMT -5
some thing is feeding positive voltage into the neg circuit
some where along the line either a load is shorted or more commonly a wire is crossed put in the wrong position
when did the problem start? look first at recently installed/ disturbed wires you will most likely find the broblem there frank
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T290
Junior Member
Posts: 4
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Post by T290 on Jun 5, 2012 13:42:24 GMT -5
We changed so much stuff under the hood I added the downriggers and Isolated those to battery #2 along with combination use of both batteries for marine radio/3- new bildge pumps/,installed new fuse blocks for both batteries. Wanted to have one battery just for starting. The kicker does not generate any voltage so I did not want to comprimise the starting battery. Just happen to hit the nav lights and watch the fuel gauge jump. I was getting my audible tone and lighting starting sequence when I turned on the lights not sure what that was all about ?? I looked at all connections on gauges and found a few ground wires that were loose on the posts so I tightend them up now I do not get the tones and lights when I hit the nav switch. Shouldn't the purple wire on the fuel gauge be hot with or without the starting key turned to the right for ignition?? I get no voltage at all on that post (I)of the gauge ?? Checked connections at sender cleaned ground on top of fuel tank ohm tested wires all seems right man it's not like carpentry where i could hit it with a hammer and make it work!! Thanks HC for your input
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Post by HONDAM on Jun 5, 2012 19:16:53 GMT -5
Had a simuliar problem today, triple check all your grounds at both ends that they have good connections.
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Post by hondacat on Jun 5, 2012 21:19:22 GMT -5
the purple wire on the fuel gauge is suposed to be HOT=bat+voltage when the key is in the run position
this voltage comes from the key sw when turned to the on position this purple waire should go to all the gauges I or + terminals not to any - or neg terminals
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Post by striper2300 on Jun 6, 2012 7:47:43 GMT -5
Frank sounds like the same problem I had on the Sea Swirl between lights and gauges jumping around until you installed the new fuse block and separated all the wiring for starting and house battery
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Post by hondacat on Jun 6, 2012 9:16:42 GMT -5
Joe is rite on the money here the real problem is when we add things it overloads certain systems most boat builders especially older ones did not ever foresee how much electrical stuff that will eventually be added to a boat these days elecrtical current has to find a way back to the battery some times we just have to upgrade the GRID to get every thing working properly lot of boat motors are running short on out put to supply all this stuf with enough electrical out put to keep every thing running properly this is where a battery management system has become a nesisity a week dont go by where a auto pilot problem is narrowed down to not enough charging capacity we service electronics installed by customers and other dealers all the time and this is probably the most common sourse of problems its not fun telling a customer that his brand new out board motor does not have enough deticated charging capacity to power all the electronics he has on his boat we have to do it all to often it seems one of the biggest reasons we like the honda out boards their advertized charging capacity id a true charging capacity not a alternator out put charging capacity is what the alternator puts out with the power it takes to keep the motor running deducted = true charging capacity a lot of guys dont find out the differense untill it is too late
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T290
Junior Member
Posts: 4
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Post by T290 on Jun 6, 2012 21:50:57 GMT -5
Frank I went under the hood and triple checked all connections even re -crimped some new ends on because old ones looked shakey.Tightened all connections on all terminals,I checked purple wire w/meter at the back of fuel gauge with ignition switch on, no power at all other gauges have power different trunk line same purple wire(I presume) so I jumped a wire between gauge that had power and it still pegged gauge down to "E" I turn on nav lights and still pegs to "E" now I just realize I have no lighting on any of the instruments...?? Except the 2 free standing bulbs under the dash that illuminates the worded discription under switches on dash! Those push button breakers cant tell if they are tripped out or not. Not sure about those push button breakers they seem awfull cheesy. There pretty much garbage aren't they?? It was getting late so I called it a night .
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Post by hondacat on Jun 20, 2012 6:47:02 GMT -5
frank bring the boat down here i will give one hour free training on do it your self wirring if we cant tell you exactly whats wrong with your fuel gauge in this amount of time i will eat one of my herring strips
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Post by kingseeker on Jun 20, 2012 8:57:49 GMT -5
Frank I will bring the hot sauce , but I am sure you will solve the wiring problem before you will have to eat the king strip,
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Post by dayoff on Jul 2, 2012 19:46:21 GMT -5
Maybe that is a special fuel gauge measuring the PRICE of gas. Up and down, how many times a day? What happened today, another 2 bit jump?
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Post by hondacat on Jul 3, 2012 21:59:13 GMT -5
happy independance day
wait till november it will be under 2.00 a gallon until the election is over
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Post by Derek on Jul 18, 2012 13:15:34 GMT -5
hey, Derek here
your problem is a ground. what is happening is when you light the gauges one of the grounds is weak or broken so the path of lease resistance is through the possitive on the motor. you can tripple, quadruple, sextuple check your dash and find nothing. 2 things i would suggest, 1 check the grounds, not only for your dash but for ANY lights that come on with that switch. also, if you have more then one battery powering your boat (like separate engine starting battery 12v and house battery 12v) make sure those 2 batteries have their grounds linked.
1 of these 2 suggestion in most cases fixes the problem with what you have there, or you can just pull an additional ground wire directly from the gauges to your battery.
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